Sarees and lehengas can take the limelight all they want but these ethnic wear staples would be incomplete without the blouse. Finding the right fit is the key to nailing ethnic styles, as it dictates the silhouette – whether you’re wearing nine yards of luxurious Banarasi silk, a voluminous skirt with cancan, or flared georgette pants. From traditional wear to fusion ensembles, a blouse can make or break the outfit and should not only fit right but also have a complementary fabric, colour, and design.
With the plethora of options online, you are sure to find a blouse that will be just right for you. However, we understand if scrolling through pages of listings is not working out for you. Keep this guide handy when choosing a blouse to pair with your ensemble. Whether you are unsure where to begin or looking to diversify your blouse collection, we explain everything from how to find the right fabrics and the latest design trends to which blouse will suit you the best.
1. Fabrics
When it comes to fabrics for blouses you can pick the exact fabric of your saree or something similar, or go for a contrasting cloth – there are no wrong answers here. The biggest factor to consider is comfort. While fabrics like velvet and silk will keep you warm in the cold, cotton and linen will help you stay breezy outdoors. You should also ensure that the blouse is lined with a layer of soft fabric as it prevents the garment from being see-through (unless you want the sheer look) and will not irritate your skin.
2. Colour matching
Choosing complementary colours for your blouse will help balance the overall outfit for a classy look. For a multi-toned saree, pick the most prominent colour in the garment. For a monochrome look, choose a colour from the same scheme or stay within the same warm or cool undertones. For a high-contrast look, find complementary shades using a colour wheel. The shade right opposite to that of your saree will be the perfect match.
3. Embellishments
If your saree has a border, ensure you are matching all the embellishments you add to it. Whether it is zari embroidery, drop lace, pearls, beads, metallic gotta patti work, or sequins, incorporate the details to the blouse to make it look cohesive. The easiest option here is to stay within the same tones, whether it’s pearlescent, rose gold, yellow gold, or silver. Other hanging details like latkans or tassels should also stay within the same metallic shades and colour scheme of your saree or lehenga.
4. Length and Cuts
The height of the blouse simply means where it ends at the waist and it all depends on your comfort levels. From a bralette blouse to a choli design that reaches your waist, you can decide the length based on your personal style and preferences. The length also depends on the shape of your blouse, as some designs need a longer length. The ‘Princess Cut’ is a popular style as it adds shape and gives a corset-like look. It involves a stitch that starts from the centre of the sleeves and moves downward in a curved line to end just above the belly button. The ‘Sabyasachi Alia Cut’ pattern, which first became popular in kurti designs, is a trendy short blouse style that features a V-neck with puff sleeves for a retro-inspired look.
5. Neckline:
Pick the neckline of the blouse as per the draping style of your saree or dupatta. A deeper neck would compliment thin pallu pleats for a contemporary bold look. A square neck with a mid-length blouse is a classy style that allows space to show off statement necklaces and your pallu or dupatta. You can also opt for a bandhgala with a choker or a collared blouse for a regal and sophisticated outfit, as it reflects silhouettes from Rajasthani royalty.
6. Back Designs:
While deciding on the back designs for your blouse, consider your hairstyle – opting for a hair updo with a backless blouse lets you showcase the intricate details. You can go for an element of surprise with a low-cut or backless blouse. A keyhole blouse is a great mid-way choice between classic and modern styles.
7. Sleeves
The sleeve design is just as important as it dictates the overall look of the outfit. Contemporary bell sleeves or puff styles will lend a romantic feel to your look. Long and elbow-length sleeves add a touch of elegance and allow you to showcase more of your blouse fabric. Cap sleeves or sleeveless styles are ideal if you plan on going for an open pallu. Ruffles and shoulder straps are trendy options and go great with non-traditional fabrics such as organza, chiffon, and net.
8. Padding vs Innerwear
Padding is ideal for blouses with open and deep necks as straps as it takes away the hassle of figuring out strapless innerwear or pasties. While padding is great for women with small to medium sizes, non-padded blouses are better for women with bust sizes on either extreme as it allows you to customise the support without bulk.
Tips to choose the right fit
A blouse should fit your snugly while allowing for movement. While trying on a blouse, raise your hands and ensure it does not ride up. Fitted sleeves should hug your arm while allowing enough space for one or two fingers so it stays comfortable even with long wear time.
If you are opting for a scoop neck or deep back, move around and bend in front of a mirror to check if your bust stays in place. If it is moving around or your innerwear is showing, you may want to size down.
Consider the occasion while picking the fabric so you are not over or under-dressed for the next wedding event, festive affair, or office party. Lighter fabrics and minimal embellishments are trending and a safe choice as they can be dressed up with jewellery as needed.
If you are planning to use the blouse for multiple outfits, note that the closure is seamless (we recommended side zippers) as it lends a clean look for fusion looks.
Note that more expensive fabrics and heavy embellishments need to be dry-cleaned. You should save such blouses for occasion wear as maintaining them on a daily basis is not the easiest.
